Inquisitor's
Palace - National Museum of Ethnography
:
This is located in Main Gate street on one's right as one walks in the
direction of Victory Square. In a sense this consists of two museums in one. It is reputed to be one of the
few surviving 'Palaces' of the Inquisition that were once widespread
throughout Europe and the Roman Catholic World. Luckily the building
survived the Second World War and many original architecural features are well
preserved. Indeed as the inscription alongside states, it dates back to the
Norman domination when it functioned as a Court of Law. It is also a museum of Maltese identity and religious
culture, with a range of artefacts pertaining to these topics..
A range of cells with original inscriptions dating back over centuries, an
austere tribunal room, a chapel, and quite a sophisticated sanitation system
(for its time) are very well preserved for all to see. The Inquisitors
Palace grew in a piecemeal way and this is unfortunately mirrored in the limited 'routing'
of the museum, however improvements are underway. The museum also has a very
well stocked museum shop run by Wirtna.
One can see an online 360o
view of a hall and main staircase of the Inquisitor's Palace (from VisitMalta)
Both this museum and the Maritime Museum are still somewhat Victorian in layout -
with extensive labelled displays but
perhaps not as educationally interactive as they could be.
These museums also house 'ad hoc' special thematic exhibitions from time to time.
In September 2012 the Administrative Offices of Birgu
Local Council moved to
the Auberge de France in Hilda Tabone Street. Although this is by no means a
museum it is the best conserved and restored Auberge in Birgu and has some
interesting
artefacts on display.
The Vittoriosa Parish Musem
is an unpolished gem. If you wish to visit a museum exclusively about Birgu (rather than simply sited in
it) and including some unique aspects specific to Birgu, then you
should visit this one.
It is based in St Joseph's Oratory - an interesting religious building in
itself. The museum is run by the Vittoriosa
Historical and Cultural Society . It is staffed by a roster of volunteer
members of the Society, and so its hours of opening are limited (usually
9.30-12 am on weekdays only), but admission is free.
The parish museum is packed full of exhibits - and is a
pageant of the history of Birgu. The exhibits cover a range of topics
including the Great Siege of 1565, the Second World War, religious aspects
etc.
The prize exhibits include the hat and sword of Grandmaster Jean de la
Vallette (shown in the image alongside). This sword was his everyday 'business' piece which he used during
the Great Siege. However his ceremonial 'Sunday best' sword which was later
gifted to him by the Holy Roman Emperor - Felipe II (Philip) of Spain was
looted by a Corsican called Napoleon Bonaparte and then taken to Paris.
Photographs in the museum show the
extensive damage inflicted on Birgu during the Second World War, when the
majority of Birgu's buildings were destroyed, and the population suffered a
great deal.
Other
museums:
Malta
at
War Museum: This provides an insight into what life in an air-raid shelter
during the Second World War blitz was
like. It is accessed through the little 'square' in the ravelin of the
'three gates' area at the entrance to the old city. The fortifications of the
old city around the museum were dug out to provide much needed shelter, and it
is an educational experience to make one's way through the shelter to see how
the inhabitants lived: ate, slept, reared children and worshipped in those
troubled times. The staff are very enthusiastic and committed.
It is undergoing a
major refurbishment and expansion but is still open for visitors.
The fortifications:
An account of
Birgu's fortifications is being developed on a separate
page. The principal fortification facing the sea is Fort St Angelo.
However the main entrance to the city, with its
three associated gates (Advanced Gate, Couvre porte and Main Gate) is a
feature well worth exploring.
It is possible to walk along various
tracts of the fortifications including the walls facing Kalkara creek which
give a good view of Valletta, and the entrance to the Grand Harbour
(guarded by Fort St Elmo and Fort Ricasoli).
The image below shows Bighi hospital viewed from the direction of Birgu. This hospital is of relatively late construction.
A lift shaft was constructed extending from the level of the hospital down to a small covered jetty at sea level to permit ill or injured seamen to be transferred to the hospital above with relative speed and comfort.
The entrance to the Grand
Harbour is just to the left.
The Birgu waterfront:
Since Birgu is a
peninsula it has a long 'V' shaped waterfront with Fort St Angelo at its tip. The
part of Birgu which faces Isla, also known as Senglea (the second of the
'Three Cities', after Birgu) has been developed into a yacht marina. The waterfront marina,
notably the Old Treasury Building is fast developing into a picturesque dining
out area, well situated close to the Maritime Museum as well as the
moorings. It includes several restaurants mentioned in a separate
page.
The main square and Collachio:
The main square and the
neighbouring Collachio, where most of the Knights of St John lived and had
their 'Auberges', has a late medieval feel to it - with narrow winding
streets. However many buildings have suffered as a result of the Second World
War and subsequent 'reconstruction'.
However interesting
architectural features have survived including aspects probably dating back to
Norman times. A number of wine bars (featured in a
companion page) have been established in this part of Birgu.
Churches:
Birgu (like most places in Malta) is very well endowed with Churches. A
very good summary account appears online in the local
council website. The Church of Saint Lawrence is the most eminent of the
churches, and before Valletta was built it was second only to the Cathedral
at Mdina. The following photo showing the Oratories of the Holy Crucifix and
of St Joseph in the 'church close' was taken from the
bell tower of St Lawrence's church (access by kind permission of Father Joe
Caruana - Archpriest):
From 1530 the
Hospital / Infirmary (Sacra Infermeria) of the Order of St John was on a site which later became
a convent (nunnery) attached to the Church of Santa Scholastica shown
in the
image below.
Other buildings and historic or architectural
features:
Other historic buildings in Birgu range from the Knights' Auberges
including Langues represented in Valletta as well as the Langue of England
which has no other counterpart, to a Treasury, various palaces, and an Armoury (which was
later a
hospital).
There are also more modern developments such as a highly
regarded yacht marina.
Birgu - the people, the folklore
and the rest:
Birgu is a bustling and active place. Unlike the only older city in
Malta (Mdina) it is not a 'silent' city. People from all walks of life live
there. There are small businesses such as upholstery, carpentry, metal working and a
bakery. It is full of small shops such as grocers, butchers and
greengrocers, as well as bars and clubs. Indeed it is as vibrant as any typical Maltese
town or village.
Besides the religious feasts (St Lawrence and St
Dominic) it also hosts a number of other events such as 'Birgufest'
/ 'Birgu
by candlelight' (news
article) and 'Jum il-Birgu' (Birgu day). The Local Council, the band
clubs and other clubs ensure that a lot happens in Birgu in spite of its
relatively small size.
A 'List of Historical sites, buildings and other places in
Birgu'
is available on Birgu local council's website.
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